I was greatly surprised to read this article by Gina Kolata on today’s (18 April 2012) front page of the New York Times about the supposed lack of documented links between urban food deserts and incidence of obesity. A couple of studies are cited here that suggest not only is the notion of a urban food desert potentially fictitious, but that it has yet to be linked with the level of obesity in a given population. The implicit argument of the article is that the concerns that have arisen about urban food deserts, in particular, may be overblown.

I find it hard to agree. Curiously absent from the article’s discussion is the several years’ worth of empirical research on Chicago’s food deserts by the Mari Gallagher Group, which uses a block-by-block analysis of the city’s population and a systematic on-the-ground assessment of the location of every food outlet in Chicago (from supermarkets to smaller groceries to convenience stories to liquor stores that sell “food” products). This research, updated annually since 2006, has clearly documented both the continued presence of large food deserts on the West and South Sides and the close correspondence of these areas to a variety of health risk factors, including higher body-mass indexes.

The good news is that the number of Chicagoans living within food deserts — places in which fresh food sources are not readily available to community residents — has decreased dramatically in recent years from about 633,000 in 2006 to 384,000 in 2011. But there’s still a ways to go to address this critical food justice, socioeconomic, and health issue. See the reports below for more details from Gallagher’s research.

Gallagher – Chicago Food Desert Drilldown 2011 (pdf)

Gallagher – Examining the Impact of Food Deserts – Exec Sum 2006 (pdf)